Sofia Richie (now Sofia Richie Grainge) has always been a style icon. But her stunning South of France wedding to Elliot Grainge in April has seen her become 2023’s muse, elevating her status into It girl territory.

From her iconic ‘quiet luxury’ outfits to the ‘Sofia Richie effect’ in dating, her name has been hot in the press and on our social feeds. This month, she took to TikTok and treated fans to a tutorial for creating her famous slicked-back bun, and it’s received over 26 million views (and rising).

As chic as it looks, the technique has experts torn with claims that it could be doing more harm than good. So we took matters into our own hands and speed-dialled some of our favourite experts to settle the debate once and for all. Here’s what they have to say.

Fresh out of the shower with just-washed hair, Richie Grainge announces that this is “the perfect opportunity to finally show you guys how to do my slicked-back bun”. Starting with wet hair, she detangles her locks with detangling spray and brushes them into a centre parting with a densely bristled brush. She reaches for a regenerating hair mask and lathers her hair from root to tip. “I’m convinced it’s the only reason why my hair length grew lusciously over Covid,” she adds. 

Next, she sections her hair and ties the back half in a high ponytail, using a texture lotion to control flyaways at the top and on the back of her neck. She then takes the front sections and uses the lotion and brush to take the hair to the back, keeping it “as tight as [she] can” to her head. She twists the hair into a ballerina bun and voila.

The 2.6 million likes on the video show there is no denying that the finished look is slicker than slick and ever so chic. But those invested in hair health have collectively shuddered at the thought of wet styling. Does this approach come with caution? Let’s find out.

For practical reasons, starting with wet hair does deliver the slickness. “Because we started wet, it is so secured to your head,” says Richie Grainge. She’s not wrong there, that has to be the slickest bun we’ve ever seen. Plus substituting gels for a hair mask gifts an easy rinse out and no sticky residue in sight. 

And for hair health? Evelina Lundgren, a creative director and stylist at Andrew Jose in Charlotte Street, is all for it, “I personally think there’s nothing wrong with the way Sofia has been doing it,” she argues. “I think it’s a great idea!” She notes that using a hair mask instead of lots of gels and hair spray may even be better for the hair. 

Phil Smith at Smith England agrees: “In many ways, the conditioning treatment will form a barrier for the hair and protect it from over-styling.” And with no product residue disrupting the scalp and lengths, Lundgren notes that “you can take the bun out after, rinse through and then do another style without washing it again”. 

At this stage, it is difficult to see any drawbacks to her approach. But with any good debate comes a convincing counterargument. Let’s discuss the downside to this technique. 

“Red flag!” exclaims Fergal Doyle at Fergal Doyle hair. “Your hair is in its most delicate state when wet, so tying your hair up in a super tight bun is a recipe for disaster.” This isn’t anything new – the hair-conscious among us would never play with fire when handling wet hair. 

Why? Doyle explains that styles like the slicked bun can put excessive stress on delicate wet hair and lead to breakage. Plus, using continuous pulling force at the root can lead to traction alopecia, which is totally preventable when hair is handled with caution. 

Doyle also raises eyebrows at the products used: “Leaving a mask or treatment in your hair longer than the manufacturer’s guidelines can cause the protein in hair to denature and have the total opposite effect.”

So it’s no surprise that this technique has raised alarm bells in his mind and in the minds of other hair experts. But with opinion divided, let’s strike a balance and find a solution.

If you tend to save your up-do days for when your hair gets greasy, then you will be pleased to hear Doyle’s advice: “Slick buns work best on hair that’s been last washed a couple of days ago.” He adds that brushing the hair will help to redistribute the oils to the dry mid-lengths and ends. And there are many products designed to deliver Sofia-worthy results.

But even with dry styling, Smith recognises that the main issue “is all about how gently you pull hair back into the bun”, adding that “any style that creates tension is always slightly risky but it’s no different or worse than creating a slick ponytail”. He notes that wet styling can be carried out here – but with caution. 

“Wet hair should always be handled with care,” says Smith. He recommends using a wide-toothed comb or a brush that is designed for wet hair, as these tend to have thinner, more flexible bristles. “Never brush from roots all the way to the ends. Instead, start at the bottom, working your way up to ease out any tangles,” he adds.

So is there a correct way to carry this technique out on wet hair? Smith describes how you should “dry hair off slightly with a towel before applying the conditioning treatment – it will help it to absorb better”. But as Doyle says, the conditioning treatment in question is important and if you are going to try the wet hair trick, he recommends opting for a leave-in conditioner instead of a mask, as these are designed to stay in the hair. 

Smith adds: “You want to go easy with how much product you apply if you’re planning on leaving it in. Less is more, so I’d suggest using the treatment lightly – more like a serum than a full-on application.”

In conclusion, go for it, but handle your wet hair with caution and use the appropriate products.“Providing you’re gentle and don’t create too much tension and you’re not doing it all the time, this little hair trick is a winner,” explains Smith. “It’s going to give you a bang up-to-date style and also leave you with beautifully soft hair when you take it out.”

Images: Getty