Every new week brings with it a new hair trend. From the angel bob to the world of fringes, it can be difficult to decipher which hairstyle is worth the cut and won’t result in some major regrets down the line. 

This is where ‘haircut theory’ comes in. The social media trend is all about your signature hair look by considering three factors: your face shape, colour analysis and essence (more on that later).

 Here, we break down haircut theory and what you need to do to work out your perfect haircut or style.

What is haircut theory? 

The social media trend posits that we all have ‘one’ haircut. Think: Jennifer Aniston’s ‘Rachel’ haircut from the 90s or Halle Berry’s iconic pixie crop in the 00s. TikTok user Liv Frankel (@livfrankel) uses Gracie Abrams and Hailey Bieber’s popular cropped bob hairstyles as examples. 

“You could have told me that [Hailey Bieber’s] had that haircut her whole life and I would have believed you because it fits her aura and her face shape,” says Frankel. However, when other celebrities get the chop, it isn’t always quite so memorable. She believes it’s all down to your aura and facial symmetry to determine what works for you.

This is broken down into three steps. The first is working out your face shape. “This can be hard, so the first thing I’d suggest is to work out who your celebrity doppelganger is and figure out what their face shape is, as they’ll likely have the same one,” says Frankel. This is key because it will help you to determine what length and cut will enhance your facial features. 

For example, if you’ve got a square face shape, you might want to soften the edges, which is where curtain bangs or wispy fringes come in handy. Whereas a diamond-shaped face’s high cheekbones are ideal for shorter crops. 

Step two is all about colour analysis. This isn’t as complex as trying to decipher your colour season; in fact, it’s very simple. “Start with the underside of your arm or palm of your hand. If your palm is primarily pink, you have a cool undertone. If it’s more yellow, you’ve got a warm undertone,” she says.

Frankel believes that if you’re cool-toned, you should opt for cooler hair tones (like icey blondes or coffee-like brunette hues). If you’re on the warmer side, something like a brassy creme brulee blonde will be your best bet. It’s not too dissimilar from picking your perfect foundation shade. 

The next is more thought-provoking. “Figure out which essence you are,” says Frankel. “This helps you discover your style and how you present to the world,” she adds. If you want to appear effortless, go for something messier like the bedhead bob. Want to look pristine and clean-cut? The flicky bob is more up your street. Your wardrobe and go-to make-up look will all play a role here too. 

Turns out, finding your signature hairstyle requires a lot more food for thought than just a hair mood board. 

Images: Getty