If you’ve spent any time scrolling through hair content online, you might have seen any of the hundreds of videos that claim rosemary oil to be the affordable, magic fix to hair loss and thinning. Among these videos are dermatologists, some of whom have suggested it can be as effective as some prescription treatments (more on that later). So it’s no surprise that some people might think it’s a miracle treatment given how easy and affordable it is. 

Hair loss and thinning can be a huge source of stress and isolation for people, which is why many turn to ‘trying everything’, even if that treatment is yet to be proven – and especially if it’s accessible and within budget. With so much information out there, it can be overwhelming to pick a treatment option. 

We called in the help of a hair restoration surgeon to find out everything you need to know about rosemary oil, including when it’s a useful tool and what its limitations are. 

Now, this isn’t an article to slam rosemary oil. It can certainly have a place in your routine if you’re a fan of scalp oiling. And there is anecdotal evidence to suggest it might help with hair growth. “Some studies hint at its potential benefits, possibly due to its anti-inflammatory and circulation-boosting properties. However, these studies are small and not robust enough to draw definitive conclusions,” says Dr Bessam Farjo, hair restoration surgeon at Farjo Hair Institute. This is why Dr Farjo is among the experts who cannot confidently claim rosemary oil is an effective treatment until more research is done. “Its use should be considered supplementary at best,” he adds.

Many people cite the 2015 study noting that rosemary oil was as effective as minoxidil, and although it sounds promising, sadly the study has been deemed flawed by many researchers.

One of the first reasons is that it’s compared against 2% minoxidil. For context, dermatologists tend to prescribe a minimum of 5% minoxidil because 2% doesn’t give the results patients expect. In addition, the paper has lots of methodological issues, which Michelle Wong, a cosmetic chemist and author of The Science Of Beauty, does a fantastic job of breaking down in a YouTube video.

So while topically applying rosemary oil can be a lovely treatment, think of it more for its ritualistic benefits than its science-backed ones. 

Although rosemary oil isn’t a solid, proven way to aid hair growth, the good news is there are of proven ways to do so. 

Having said that, it’s not straightforward. That’s because women’s hair loss is more complicated than men’s as it’s influenced by a far broader range of causes, according to Dr Farjo. “These include: hormonal imbalances (such as those associated with pregnancy, menopause or thyroid issues), nutritional deficiencies, stress and underlying medical conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS),” he explains. For hair loss, a consultation with a full medical history (with tests carried out) needs to be taken to prescribe the best course of action for your specific needs.

Minoxidil is an over-the-counter topical treatment that’s approved for female pattern hair loss. Although it can be tricky to get into the routine of using it (daily or twice-daily, and it can leave the scalp looking a bit greasy), it’s a great option for tackling hair loss. “Minoxidil can help by prolonging the growth phase of hair follicles, though results may take several months to appear and vary by individual,” Dr Farjo explains.

There are in-clinic treatments you can try, too. Dr Farjo has recently introduced a new tricopat device treatment, which uses skin micro-incision and acoustic waves to help hair growth. You can also try low-level laser therapy, which uses “red light to enhance cell activity in hair follicles”, he adds. And for those with more significant hair loss, you can consider surgical options like a hair transplant (where “hair follicles are transplanted from one part of the scalp to another”).

If you can, seek medical advice from professionals before trying a myriad of too-good-to-be-true solutions online because, often, they’re just that. 

Images: Getty