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2 min read
Scalp exfoliation is so important for healthy hair growth and preventing build-up, but physical scrubs aren’t always best for curly and coily hair. Here’s how to exfoliate your scalp if you have textured hair.
There’s no doubt that scalp care has become a hot topic over the last few years. Once seen as an afterthought for many hair wash routines, the scalp has come firmly to the forefront. While cleansing the hair is key for getting rid of product build-up and enhancing the shine, definition and texture of our locks, the scalp is hugely responsible for healthy hair growth, too.
Spending time scrubbing and massaging the scalp helps to increase blood flow to the roots, encouraging hair growth. It’s also important to stop skin issues associated with the scalp too.
“Scalp exfoliation is a way of reducing Malassezia furfur levels, a type of yeast that is found on the scalp and other skin surfaces,” says trichologist Mark Blake. “It has been associated with seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, irritation and other dermatological conditions.”
Sounds pretty essential, right? Well, if you have tightly curly or coiled hair, you might find that the physical scalp scrubs on offer don’t rinse out of your hair well, and can get tangled into your locks. “With a physical exfoliant you have to rub the scalp and risk tangling or knotting the hair,” notes Blake.
The risk of knotting is less likely in straighter textures and you can almost guarantee that scrubs will rinse out thoroughly. But the tighter your texture, the more it becomes not worth the wash-day having to pick out scrub grains and tangles.
Fortunately, this doesn’t mean the answer is vetoing exfoliating your scalp altogether. There are a number of great options that keep the scalp healthy without affecting your curls and coils. One alternative to traditional physical scrubs is using a chemical exfoliant. These tend to rely on skincare favourites such as glycolic and salicylic acid to nibble away at dead skin cells without aggravation or issue for your hair.
Plus, despite the fact that chemical exfoliants effectively slough away dead scalp skin, they won’t affect hair colour or any chemical services you’ve had on your curly or coily hair. “A good chemical exfoliant will not damage the hair or change your hair colour but a cheap, abrasive granular one that needs lots of rubbing might,” warns Blake. The best thing is, a scalp refresh can be easily slotted into your washday routine no matter how frequently you wash your hair. Blake recommends monthly scalp exfoliation for the healthiest roots so, if you wash your hair fortnightly, making every other hair wash scalp-focused will be enough attention to level up your regimen.
Here are the best buys to add to your haircare kit for optimum scalp health and happy hair.
Nioxin Dermabrasion Treatment
This is the go-to that Blake recommends to his textured-haired clients. “A scalp exfoliation cream such as Nioxin’s Dermabrasion is the perfect answer for curls,” he says. “It eats away at all the debris on your scalp, regenerates and revitalises it through exfoliation, and helps accelerate skin surface regeneration. It only needs to be done once a month so is the perfect way to keep your scalp healthy.”
The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner
This product became TikTok famous when users realised the exfoliating benefits of glycolic acid stretched to scalp care too. At 10% concentration, it’s a powerful formula for sloughing away debris and dead skin, plus it’s got witch hazel to combat the overproduction of oil. Apply it pre-wash in sections then wash as normal.
Philip Kingsley Flaky/Itchy Scalp Regime Kit
Philip Kingsley is known for two things: the brand’s incredible Elasticizer pre-treatment and the clinic’s specialism in scalp care and hair growth. This kit contains everything you need for a healthy scalp wash day. I particularly love the toner. The Piroctone Olamine combats fungus and bacteria for a balanced scalp.
Shop Philip Kingsley Flaky/Itchy Scalp Regime Kit at Cult Beauty, £30
Hello Klean Exfoliating Scalp Brush
I now refuse to wash my hair with just my hands when I know the difference a scalp brush can make. After lathering up I’ll use one in circular motions around my scalp. Not only does it feel great, it really stimulates blood flow.
Shop Hello Klean Exfoliating Scalp Brush at Cult Beauty, £10
Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Tea Tree Scalp Treatment Serum
You can use this serum pre- or post-hair wash by simply massaging in sections into the scalp. The charcoal helps remove build-up plus the peppermint, spearmint and tea tree calm and soothe any inflammation.
Shop Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Tea Tree Scalp Treatment Serum at Cult Beauty, £27
Fable & Mane Sahascalp Wild Ginger Purifying Scrub
If you really, really want to try a physical scrub, this is the only one I would suggest for tightly curled hair. It’s a salt scrub but it also foams and the salt washes away well. You do need to rinse your hair thoroughly afterwards and I would apply in sections, starting where you’ve parted your hair and working inwards. It’s excellent at buffing away dead skin and encouraging healthy blood flow to the scalp.
Shop Fable & Mane Sahascalp Wild Ginger Purifying Scrub at Cult Beauty, £30
Images: courtesy of brands
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