The world of hair oils can be tricky to navigate. One person’s ‘just right’ can be another’s ‘too heavy’, and when it comes to curl care, the balance can be even more delicate.

On the one hand, you need moisture like a pen needs ink; it’s essential. On the other hand, you don’t want your curls and coils to be weighed down or greasy.

But that doesn’t mean you should write-off oils altogether. The right one for your texture can change your hair care game forever. 

How to use hair oils

Curly hair specialist Jasmine Cleo tells Stylist: “The golden rule of hair oils is that a little goes a long way and they should be used primarily on your scalp, to encourage growth and shiny, healthy hair. Hair oils are used to hydrate and create shiny hair, but beware: if you overuse them they will end up causing your hair to become even drier and you end up in a never ending cycle. It’s tricky to explain, but if you had dry skin you wouldn’t suffocate it with heavy oils and the same is true for your hair and scalp.

“If you do want to use hair oils as a finishing product, please just apply to the mid lengths and ends and just use a tiny amount. The oil does not give your curls definition, but it will look great at the very end of your styling session. Just scrunch in a few drops to add shine.”

What ingredients to look out for

Cleo, who’s currently based at Taylor Taylor London, says: “My personal favourites are oils containing peppermint, which really helps with a dry, flaky scalp. This is needed as many of my clients with coily and curly hair do not wash their hair very often. This is the perfect option for oiling the night before, and it then helps to cleanse out any residue and build-up on the scalp and hair when you wash the next morning. Rosemary and rosehip are also great for promoting growth, as is the classic castor oil, but here, you really do only need a touch.”

But remember, oils aren’t a cure-all

“My main message,” says Cleo, “is that relying on hair oils alone won’t give you the results you need, as the main issue I see with my clients is that they are not cutting their hair often enough. Often, my clients have had pretty traumatic cutting experiences so they are understandably nervous about coming to have their hair cut, but so much dry and dead hair is really damaging in itself. Creating a good oiling routine with a regular cut will give you pretty much instant results.

“A final tip is to lower your shower temperature. Curly and coily hair has the tendency to dry out easily, and using that hot water for a hair wash may feel great, but it’s certainly not great for your hair.”

Curl-friendly hair oils to shop 

Images: courtesy of brands