Within the haircare and skincare industry, there can be an element of scaremongering when it comes to certain formulations and ingredients. The rise in popularity of “clean” skincare, “non-toxic” make-up and silicone and sulfate-free haircare has meant that certain phrases and ingredients have been jumbled together – often without much knowledge about their purpose or effect. 

One such ingredient, ‘silicones’, proves this point well. In the last 12 months, Google searches for silicone-free shampoo have gone up by 50%, while searches for silicone-free heat protectors have risen by 40%. They’ve moved from being largely ignored ingredients to a place where people will actively avoid certain brands and products because of their presence. 

However, the eschewing of silicones is not totally incomprehensible. Due to their molecular structure, certain silicones can build up on the hair shaft, creating a film that makes hydration more difficult. They can also be difficult to remove, resulting in lank or limp-looking hair. On the flip side, the added protection from silicones can reduce the amount of breakage caused by friction and mechanical damage. They can also add shine and gloss to otherwise dull hair.

Now, not all silicones are created equally. Some silicones have been developed to work with the hair and some (often found in cheaper products, but not always) have maintained the residue-leaving qualities they’re so disliked for. But, before we get too deep into the role of silicones, let’s refresh on what exactly they are and how to identify them on ingredient lists. 

Why are silicones used in hair products?

“Silicones are a polymer (a class of natural or synthetic substance that contains very large molecules) that coats the hair giving it a smooth feel. Silicones have the ability to smooth the hair cuticle, impart shine and lock in moisture,” explains Stephanie Sey, a trichologist and Grow Gorgeous partner. “They are usually viewed as emollients within products and are commonly found in heat protectants. There are two types of silicone: water soluble and non-water soluble.”

How to tell if a product contains silicone

Silicones come by a number of names, all of which refer to the macro-molecule containing substance we outlined above. Here are some of the names of non-water-soluble silicones commonly used in hair care:

• Dimethicone
• Dimethiconol
• Amodimethicone
• Cetyl dimethicone
• Cetearyl methicone

And for the water-soluble silicones:

• Stearoxy dimethicone
• Dimethicone copolyol
• Behenoxy dimethicone

A good rule of thumb is looking for ingredients that end in –cone. While not an exact science, you’re likely to be right far more than you’re wrong. If you’re really confused, have a quick Google. The answer should pop right up and give you more information about whether it’s water-soluble or non-water-soluble.

Are silicones damaging to the hair and scalp?

“Silicones are man-made and when first used can make the hair feel and look amazing. However, if they are not water-soluble then the silicone can build up on the hair and scalp, preventing the penetration of active ingredients in shampoos and conditioners,” says Eva Proudman, chairman of the Institute of Trichologists UK and consultant trichologist to Absolute Collagen.

“They can also make retaining hydration more difficult and the hair can become dull and lifeless with a build-up of silicone on top of it. To remove silicone you need a shampoo that contains sulfates to really be able to clean it from the hair.”

How to use water-soluble and non-water-soluble silicones properly

“Products that contain silicone should be used last in your routine as they will lock in the moisture from the other products and hold the style longer. The other key to using silicones in your haircare is understanding that if you use non-water-soluble silicones (like dimethicone) you will need to use a stronger clarifying shampoo to remove it from the hair. For water-soluble silicones like PEG-8 or laurel methicone, you are able to use milder shampoos,” says Sey.

Certain heat protectors contain silicone to spread the effect of heat along the shaft as you use a hairdryer, straightener, curler or heated rollers. Again, a heat protector is likely to be the final or close-to-final step in your hair care routine and so shouldn’t cause excessive damage to the internal structure of the hair or prevent adequate hydration. 

As we touched on before, silicones are among a handful of ingredients to be conflated with damaging your hair or skin. The fact of the matter is that modern silicones have progressed, developed and undergone intense research and formulation – their presence in your haircare does not necessarily mean it is damaging or ineffective. My best advice would be to experiment with what works for your hair, you’ll quickly find what looks and feels good for you. 

Main image: Getty