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3 min read
Glycolic acid – a hero skincare ingredient – is increasingly being used in haircare. Here’s why…
If you’ve ever wished for longer, stronger hair (or you struggle with a dry and flaky scalp), it’s likely you’ve considered adding a specific scalp product to your haircare routine. After all, the condition of our hair starts with our scalp, but it’s an area of our skin that has often been neglected – until now.
Skincare ingredients are making their way into our haircare routines, bolstering shampoos and conditioners and fuelling scalp-specific products, meaning our hair has the best chance of growing long, strong and seriously healthy-looking.
The ingredient of the moment? Glycolic acid, and it makes sense. Glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds that keep dead skin cells attached to the skin. While it’s a common exfoliant used in skin and body care, it’s now being added to haircare formulations to reduce dandruff and promote stronger hair follicles.
How does glycolic acid benefit hair?
“Traditional hair conditioning agents repair and protect the exterior of the hair shaft, but the hair shaft’s interior can also suffer damage and become weakened,” explains hairstylist Saivo Ierna. “The cortex, which is made of keratin, gives hair its pigment and provides hair’s structural integrity, strength and swelling/stretching ability. Glycolic acid can penetrate the hair shaft, stabilise the keratin within and provide stronger, more manageable hair.”
Not only that, but applying a glycolic acid-based product directly to the scalp can help with cell turnover, banishing dandruff and flakes. “Glycolic acid removes dead skin cells, product build-up, sweat, sebum and other debris. This deep clean increases cell turnover and improves absorption for other products.”
The best glycolic acid hair products
The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub
Like a serious spring clean for your scalp, this Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub removes build-up and flakes, balances oils and supports the hair follicles to help your hair be its best. 7% glycolic acid works to remove dead skin while Mediterranean microalgae helps to regulate sebum levels. Use as a pre-shampoo treatment, once or twice a week.
Shop The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub at Cult Beauty, £14
Oribe Serene Scalp Exfoliating Scrub
Packed with AHAs (including glycolic acid) and polymer beads to effectively slough away dirt, oil and build-up, this scalp scrub rebalances stressed-out or irritated scalps, leaving your hair feeling lighter and more volumised post-use. The soothing flower complex (a blend of chamomile, cornflower, matricaria, linden, marigold and willowherb flower extracts) works to calm the scalp and leave your hair feeling soft and silky.
Shop Oribe Serene Scalp Exfoliating Scrub at Cult Beauty, £47
Grow Gorgeous Scalp Care Purifying AHA 5% Booster + Prebiotic
Formulated with glycolic acid to clarify the scalp and prebiotics to support your microbiome, this daily scalp serum is designed to get to work in just two weeks – nixing greasy hair and banishing dandruff.
Shop Grow Gorgeous Scalp Care Purifying AHA 5% Booster + Prebiotic at Debenhams, £25
L’Oréal Paris Elvive Glycolic Gloss 5 Minute Lamination Treatment
Glycolic acid doesn’t just benefit your scalp. This five-minute gloss utilises the benefits of glycolic acid to penetrate the hair’s fibre, improving shine, smoothness and strength. Conditioning agents work to seal cuticles with a long-lasting shine – expect mirror-like gloss in just one use.
Shop L’Oréal Paris Elvive Glycolic Gloss 5 Minute Lamination Treatment at Boots, £15.99
Ffor Purify:Scalp Serum
Using a combination of AHAs, lactic and glycolic acids, this gentle formula effectively exfoliates dry skin, product build-up and environmental pollutants, while niacinamide, panthenol, betane and glycerine get to work by giving the scalp an intense moisture boost. Use as a pre-shampoo treatment for 10-15 minutes, before washing away.
Amika Smooth Over Frizz-Fighting Treatment Mask
Another hero de-frizzer, this 60-second rinse-out treatment keeps your tresses soft, silky and protected from humidity. Enriched with glycolic acid, water lily extract and sea buckhorn (which is rich in omega 7), it creates a protective barrier to smooth and hydrate your mane while minimising dryness.
Shop Amika Smooth Over Frizz-Fighting Treatment Mask at Cult Beauty, £29
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
While this product isn’t strictly designed for use on the scalp (it’s technically a skincare exfoliator), it did go viral on TikTok for its ability to banish dandruff. Applied before a normal shampoo and conditioning routine – the acid is reported to reduce flaking skin and discourage its reappearance.
Shop The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution at Lookfantastic, £11.50
Images: courtesy of brands
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