Eye creams are, quite possibly, one of the beauty world’s most divisive subjects, and there are two types of people: those who wouldn’t dream of finishing off their skincare routine without diligently tapping into it and those who think it’s a waste of both money and time and will skip eye cream altogether.

But who’s right? Are eye creams simply moisturisers with clever marketing, or do our eyes deserve an extra step of TLC in our daily routines? To find out the truth once and for all, we’ve spoken to four skin experts and asked them for their true thoughts on eye creams, along with how they work, what they can realistically do and whether the pricey formulations are worth the (sometimes) triple-figure price tags. 

“The delicate skin around the eye area is the first to show lines and the effects of dehydration and a busy lifestyle,” explains Abigail Williams, skincare expert and national education manager for Caudalie. “Most eye creams have similar base ingredients as your face moisturiser; however, they’re additionally formulated with specific ingredients to effectively target common eye area complaints.”

So do you definitely need a separate eye-specific product? Not always. “Many facial moisturisers are suitable to use around the under-eye area and you do not necessarily need a separate product, contrary to popular belief,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. “Generally speaking, if a product is suitable for the face, it should be fine to use around the eyes.” 

“No amount of eye cream will improve age-related sagging or puffy eyes regardless of what the product promises you,” reveals Dr Mahto. “The skin around the eyes is vulnerable to damage from the sun’s radiation, and while an eye cream will moisturise, plump the skin and temporarily improve fine lines, wearing SPF around the eyes is absolutely vital if premature ageing is a concern.” 

Disappointed? Eye creams do still have a place in your skincare routine and can help with a fair amount of eye-related complaints, which might improve the overall appearance and texture of the skin. 

“With the right product and ingredients, you can improve the appearance of fatigue, dullness and dehydration lines,” explains Nicolas Travis, founder of Allies of Skin. “What eye creams can’t do is remove fine lines, wrinkles, eye bags and droopy eyelids.”

It’s the age-old question, but can eye creams really help with dark circles? The short answer is yes, they can, but it’s important to recognise what causes dark circles in the first place and manage your expectations accordingly, especially when seeking specific results.

“Dark circles under the eyes appear for a variety of reasons, whether it is genetics, stress or exhaustion,” explains dermatologist and skin expert Dr Howard Murad. “Lack of adequate sleep can contribute to the appearance of dark circles, which occur thanks to dilated blood vessels that create a dark tint under the eyes. Studies have also shown that cortisol levels increase when we’re stressed, which can lead to lacklustre skin and dark circles. Lastly, allergies are a leading cause of dark circles because of fluid retention around the eyes, which causes puffiness,” he says.

There are also different types of dark circles. Thin, translucent skin around the eyes is more likely to show discolouration and signs of ageing. Blue or purple shadows are a result of low microcirculation, and thin skin around the eyes increases the visibility of unoxygenated blood (which is blue). Brown marks under the eyes are usually a result of sun damage, irritation and genetics, which can result in hyperpigmentation.

Although certain skin tones are unable to rid their eye area of the dark pigmentation, people experiencing dark circles can look for an eye cream that contains vitamin C, an ingredient rich in antioxidants that helps to brighten the skin. It’s also worth looking for skin-quenching ingredients to firm and awaken the eye area, and light diffusers to immediately illuminate the area.

“Topically, applying caffeine and peptide-infused products can help decrease under-eye bags and rejuvenate skin in that area,” says Dr Murad. 

If you’re in the market for an eye cream that really works, it’s time to familiarise yourself with INCI lists, which is the list of ingredients on the back of the product packaging. Look for things like hyaluronic acid, squalane and glycerin, which are great for hydrating the skin and can help to smooth fine lines which may be caused by dehydration. 

Ceramides and omegas nourish and strengthen the skin, while bakuchiol or retinol can be helpful in ramping up collagen production and plumping and smoothing fine lines. “Retinol is considered the gold standard for anti-ageing products, and for good reason. It dramatically improves all key signs of ageing, minimising the look of wrinkles and crow’s feet while lifting and firming skin,” explains Dr Murad.

You might also find ingredients like pre-orbital brighteners, which are great for providing a brightening effect around the eye. While these won’t have a lasting effect on dark circles, they can help to temporarily brighten the area.

An expensive price tag doesn’t always mean that the product will be better. However, some formulas do warrant a hefty price tag due to the research and testing that’s gone into the product – not to mention the quality of the ingredients used. While packaging can seem like an unnecessary expense – this isn’t always the case. Packaging plays an important role in keeping the formula inside as efficacious from the first use to the last. While a clever pump mechanism might be more expensive to produce than a simple pot or tub, the chances are it’s helping to keep the product inside more stable.

“The best thing to do is to pick one at the right price point for you, with the texture and actives that you love,” suggests Travis. “Diligence is key so it’s best to pick an eye cream that you want to use daily.”

Main image: Getty