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Beauty
The ultimate guide for looking after your cuticles at home, including the best products to use
By Amber Voller
3 months ago
6 min read
You’ve sussed how to nourish your body, face and hair, but what about keeping your cuticles and the dry skin around your nails in check? Our expert guide has all the products and quick tricks you need.
Like split ends, flaky lips or those rogue mascara smudges that appear out of nowhere, bad cuticles are a small but mighty beauty conundrum that can make your manicure look uneven or grown out if not tackled.
But is it really OK to make like the professional manicurists and tend to your own cuticles? And does daily cuticle oil application really make a difference?
We quizzed some of the industry’s leading nail technicians on the cuticle care tips and products worth knowing…
How to remove and push back your cuticle safely
For starters, it’s important to understand what the nail’s cuticle is for. Located along the bottom edge of your finger or toe, it might look like a mere sliver of skin but its job is to act as a protective shield.
While you might notice salon manicurists getting to work on the area with all kinds of tools, cutting your own cuticle is a no-no, according to the experts we spoke to.
“Your cuticle is essentially the end of your skin, and it behaves as a barrier to avoid bacteria getting in. If not cut correctly, it can bleed and can also create jagged edges, causing your manicure to look messier than if you hadn’t touched it at all,” explains session nail technician Maddy Rooke.
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So what should we do if our cuticles are looking a little worse for wear?
“To perform safe and effective cuticle work, a good knowledge of cuticle anatomy is needed, so it’s best left to the professionals. That said, you can gently use a nipping tool on hang nails around the edges as long as you’re only touching the dead skin. Any living tissue should never be trimmed as this will only encourage the skin to grow back thicker,” says Jenny Longworth, a nail artist whose clients include Rihanna and Harry Styles.
“You can gently push cuticles back to make the nail bed look cleaner and healthier with the help of an intensive cuticle treatment like Jessica Nourish Therapeutic Cuticle Formula, £16.95. Apply it generously, massage it in and leave for a couple of minutes to absorb and soften.
“Then use a clean damp flannel with a slightly exfoliating texture to rub in circular motions. This will remove the excess and allow you to gently push your cuticle back as well as banishing the dead skin cells that can cause hangnails and make gel manicures lift,” says Rooke.
“Be careful when dealing with the ‘half moon’ area close to your cuticle, though. This controls the health of the nail growing through. When pushing back your cuticles, make sure you don’t apply too much pressure here as it could affect how the new nail grows, creating ridges or white spots,” she adds.
And hacking at our cuticle isn’t the only manicure mishap we’re making.
“It’s not always a good idea to soak your cuticles in warm water. It might feel nice at the time, but as we all know, after a lot of housework, when our hands are immersed in water, it can really dry the area out. Wear gloves when doing the washing up and using cleaning products to avoid this,” advises Rooke.
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Do I need a separate hand cream and cuticle oil?
All the experts we quizzed were unanimous on this one.
“A separate oil, used daily, is imperative for good cuticle and nail care. The molecules in oils are smaller than those in hand creams meaning they can seep down into the layers of the nail. Look for those containing jojoba or avocado as these are most effective at penetrating the nail plate,” Longworth says.
“I see your hand moisturiser as your conditioner and your oil as your treatment. A healthy cuticle will promote a healthy nail and faster growth. I would apply hand cream after washing your hands throughout the day and cuticle oil at night so the product can be absorbed and the cuticles intensely treated for a long period of time,” Rooke tells Stylist.
“Cuticle oil and hand cream typically have different jobs. Hand cream helps relieve the feeling of dryness, whereas cuticle oil intensely nourishes and protects your nails from environmental damage. The skin on your hands also tends to produce less oil than the rest of your body, so it’s important to use products specially formulated for that area,” says manicurist Jessica Thompson, who started her career at the much-missed Wah Nails and has since worked backstage at Jeremy Scott and Moschino.
Manicurist Stephanie Staunton, who has worked on fashion shows for Kenzo and Burberry, even takes ‘before’ and ‘after’ pictures of her clients’ tips after a fortnight of using cuticle oil – the results are that impressive. “Using hand cream instead of cuticle oil is like expecting your shampoo to do the job of your conditioner. It’s just not going to nourish sufficiently. My clients see a dramatic difference within a fortnight of using cuticle oil,” she reveals.
Best cuticle care products
Beauty Pie Cuticle Therapy
This clever formula is packing with nourishing and restorative ingredients to not only help repair cuticles, but prevent further issues, too. A mix of almond, bakuchiol and olive oils all work to soften, soothe and hydrated the cuticle area, while vitamin E protects the nail plate against damage.
Jessica Phenomen Oil Intensive Moisturiser
This is a mainstay in manicurists’ kits, including that of Maddy Rooke. “I find my clients are more likely to use a cuticle oil if it sinks in quickly and isn’t too greasy. This multi-tasker fits the bill.
“It smells amazing and the sweet almond oil has brilliant repairing properties. You can also mix it with your moisturiser for dry areas of your body or on the ends of your hair for split ends,” she tells us.
Shop Jessica Phenomen Oil Intensive Moisturiser at lookfantastic, £16.50
Manucurist Huile Verte
Filled with six different plant oils, this works a treat on rough nails and cracked cuticles. Not only does it hydrate and soften the cuticle area, but it also works hard to strengthen your nails, meaning they’re less prone to breakage.
OPI Pro Spa Nail and Cuticle Oil-To-Go
If you’re serious about upgrading your cuticles, you’ll want to reapply your oil several times a day. Keep this nifty pen within reach and you’ll soon notice a difference. The fast-absorbing gel feels lightweight but delivers souped-up moisture.
Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle Remover
Think of this gel as your targeted active serum, helping slough away those dead skin cells so the task of pushing back your cuticles is a little easier. Containing soothing chamomile and aloe, just leave it on for 15 seconds then use a manicure stick wrapped in cotton wool to gently neaten up the area. Wash off the excess with warm, soapy water.
Shop Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle Remover at Sainsbury’s, £7.99
Margaret Dabbs Nourishing Nail & Cuticle Serum Pen
If anybody knows nails, it’s Margaret Dabbs. Whether you’re struggling with dry, damaged, flaky, split or inflamed nails, this carefully considered formulation treats your cuticles and contains tea tree oil to protect against infection.
Shop Margaret Dabbs Nourishing Nail & Cuticle Serum Pen at Margaret Dabbs, £13
Essie Nail Care Apricot Oil Cuticle Treatment
This nail treatment spotlights apricot kernel oil as its star ingredient, thanks to its ability to hydrate the cuticle, keep the surrounding skin soft and absorb quickly. It also gives nails a natural, healthy-looking shine.
Shop Essie Nail Care Apricot Oil Cuticle Treatment at Lookfantastic, £8.99
Lucy Pastorelli LP Cuticle Balm
Perfect to keep in your handbag when you’re on the go, this little tin contains an ultra-nourishing balm that revives dry, cracked and chapped cuticles. Plus, it has notes of amber, sandalwood and violet, making you feel like you’ve just had a fancy manicure.
Shop Lucy Pastorelli LP Cuticle Balm at Lucy Pastorelli, £11.25
Famous Names Dadi’Oil
Ever wondered why manicurists ask if you have any allergies? It’s because many hand and cuticle products contain almond oil which often can’t be used by those allergic to nuts. If that’s you, this is a great alternative, says Rooke. It feels a lot more plush than the mini price tag would suggest.
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“This top coat genuinely helps my nails grow and look healthy”
Images: Getty; courtesy of brands
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