Collagen is one of the main building blocks of skin, but as we age, the body starts to make less of it. That’s why skin can not only lose its elasticity but also cause an increase in fine lines, wrinkles and, in some cases, sagging.

While plenty of products are available that help to promote collagen production, copper peptides are something you don’t hear about all that often, but they’re worth considering for your daily skincare routine.

That’s not all copper peptides are good for, though; they’re a real multitasking skincare hero. Here, we speak to Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer at Deciem, to get the low-down.

What are copper peptides?

“In short, copper peptides, such as GHK (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine), are also known as carrier peptides where their primary function is to carry copper ions,” says Kaka.

What are the benefits of using copper peptides for your skin?

“GHK is naturally present in the body, and as we age, levels begin to deplete. On its own, GHK is a powerful antioxidant,” says Kaka. “But when it’s combined with copper (Cu) it forms something called copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), which creates a peptide complex that has a huge range of benefits for skin.

“Its natural role, as found in the human body, includes the activation of a wide range of skin health functions, including healing, immune function, collagen synthesis, production of fibroblasts (cells that work as collagen/elastin ‘factories’) and anti-inflammatory responses. This, in turn, will improve skin elasticity, density and firmness and enhance skin clarity.”

In terms of how frequently they can be used, Kaka says twice a day is ideal: once in the morning and again in the evening.

Can copper peptides be used in combination with other ingredients?

“Yes. Copper peptides can be combined with other active ingredients that support skin hydration and barrier function, such as hyaluronic acid, amino acids and facial oils,” he says. “On the other hand, I do not recommend combining copper peptides with direct acids, retinoids, pure or ethylated vitamin C or strong antioxidants.”

Are there any side effects of using copper peptides in skincare products?

“Copper peptides, such as GHK-Cu, are naturally occurring within our skin and have an array of benefits. At Deciem, we have not come across any clinical studies that raise concerns on the safety of topical copper peptides,” says Kaka. “However, we always recommend a patch-test before incorporating a new product into your routine. We do not recommend applying copper peptides on compromised, broken or peeling skin.”

What form do copper peptides usually take?

“Copper peptides can be offered in different formats, such as serums or balms,” says Kaka. “However, the efficacy of topical copper peptides in the skin is dependent on multiple factors, including the composition of the formulation, the type and concentration of copper peptides incorporated, the intended purpose of the formula, and the combination of copper peptides with other skincare formulas.”

At what point in your routine should you use copper peptides?

“This depends on the format of the product. We suggest applying products in order from lightest to heaviest formulations,” he explains. “This allows serums and lightweight formulas to be absorbed into the skin without struggling to go through thicker formulations. For instance, a water-based serum should be applied before heavier and oil formulations.

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