With so much skincare advice at our fingertips, it can be overwhelming to figure out what’s fact and what’s fiction. From influencers talking about the latest skincare ingredients on social media to the endless array of products promising to squash all of our skincare concerns, it can feel like there’s new information to digest every day. And while some of it is genuinely helpful, much of it can leave us confused about what our skin really needs.

So it’s no wonder that we’ve all fallen victim to the odd skincare myth. Whether it’s the belief that you should strip oily skin with foaming cleansers or that expensive products automatically mean better results, there are plenty of misconceptions still floating around. That’s why we’ve turned to the experts to set the record straight.

Below, we asked dermatologists to weigh in on some of the most common skincare myths, helping you separate the facts from the fiction and get your routine back on track. Here’s what you need to know…

“That tight and squeaky clean feeling is a sign that you are disrupting your skin barrier with your cleansing practices,” explains Dr Beibei Du-Harpur, expert dermatologist ambassador at Simple Skincare. “Your skin’s primary function is as a barrier organ, and on a microscopic level, this looks like layers of cells glued together with lipids. These natural lipids can be affected by cleansing ingredients, so it is important to select a cleanser that removes make-up and pollutants that you are exposed to without disrupting these essential barrier lipids. The Simple Replenishing Cream Cleanser is a great gentle cleanser that is suitable for those with sensitive skin. ” 

“The belief that your skin can get used to skincare products is categorically untrue,” says Dr Du-Harpur. “Using more skincare products is associated with a higher risk of skin irritation and allergy, so it’s best to keep your routine as minimalist as possible. Using actives to target your concerns consistently – this doesn’t have to be daily, it could be three times a week – over four to six-month periods will yield the best results.” 

“Maintaining the skin barrier is vital in all skin types but is especially important in inflammatory skin conditions such as acne,” explains Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist at CeraVe. “This is because an impaired barrier often results in irritation and inflammation which, in turn, can exacerbate acne. It’s absolutely a myth that you need to dry out your skin to treat breakouts. In fact, a compromised barrier can lead to a vicious cycle of more breakouts and repeated layering of more drying products.” 

“It is a common myth that you can’t use retinol in summer,” says Granite. “Retinol does increase cell turnover and removes dead skin cells, but you’re also plumping your dermis at the same time, so technically, you’re not thinning your skin. It’s vital to use SPF when using retinol, but this is important all year round. UV rays deactivate the retinol and make it ineffective, so it’s important to apply it at night rather than avoid it during the summer months.”

“It’s a widespread belief that a lengthy, multi-step routine is essential for good skin but the truth is that less is often more. Overloading the skin with too many products can cause irritation, disrupt the skin barrier and even lead to clogged pores. A simple, targeted routine is not only more manageable but can also be more effective when it comes to maintaining healthy skin. A stripped-back routine is also less expensive and better for the environment,” suggests Jason Thomson, dermatologist and head of medical at Skin + Me.

“At Skin + Me, our approach focuses on a stripped-back, three-step nighttime routine that covers all the essentials: cleanse, treat and hydrate.” 

“It’s a widespread misconception that moisturising oily skin will make it greasier,” says Thomson. “In reality, skipping moisturiser can exacerbate oiliness. When the skin’s moisture barrier is compromised or dehydrated, it compensates by producing more sebum which can lead to oilier skin, clogged pores and breakouts.” 

“People often believe that higher price tags guarantee better results. The reality is that many affordable products contain the same active ingredients as their luxury counterparts and the difference between the products will often come down to marketing and packaging differences,” reveals Thomson. “Some expensive brands do contain proprietary blends of active ingredients that they have patented – but as a dermatologist I want to see high quality scientific evidence for an active ingredient before I recommend it and often these patented blends of actives in expensive products do not have much scientific rigour behind them. What matters is consistency and using the right products for your skin type, not how much you spend.” 

“It’s a common misconception that pores can physically open or close. In reality, pores don’t have muscles that allow them to expand or contract. What people perceive as ‘open’ or ‘closed’ pores relates to the accumulation of sebum, dead skin cells and debris within the pores, which can make them appear larger or more prominent,” explains Thomson.

“The key to minimising the appearance of pores is by keeping them clear and reducing oil and sebum production. Ingredients like azelaic acid can help by exfoliating inside the pores, reducing build-up and calming inflammation.” 

Images: Getty; courtesy of brands