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Best face serums: the formulas dermatologists and skincare experts actually use
Updated 3 years ago
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9 min read
In the market for a new serum? We called upon Stylist’s most trusted dermatologists to share their all time favourites…
When it comes to skincare, serums are particularly tricky waters in which to venture. There are just so many out there, each claiming to do yet another wonderful thing to your complexion, whether that’s ward off breakouts, plump up cheeks, or make skin generally brighter.
And with so many serums on the market, it can be hard to decide which is right for you. Plus, knowing which ingredients to look out for can further add to the confusion – especially if you’re not really even sure what you’re looking for in the first place.
But worry not, because that is where we can help. We’ve called upon Stylist’s little black book of dermatologists so see which skincare serums they really rate.
The list that follows contains the serums that some of the UK’s leading dermatologists 100% vouch for: they contain truly powerful ingredients and always deliver on their often fairly wild promises. And one small side note before we delve in: serums should always be applied onto clean, dry (and if you use one) exfoliated skin, and sit under moisturiser, SPF or facial oil. Simple.
The best dermatologist-approved serums
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum
“Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps to brighten and even out skin tone, while also protecting against environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays,” explains Medical Consultant and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. “My favourite vitamin C serum is the Skinceuticals C E Ferulic serum, which contains a potent blend of 15% pure vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid. This combination of antioxidants provides powerful protection against free radicals and helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Shop SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum at Lookfantastic, £165
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum
“Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 serum is a great option for those looking for a product containing retinaldehyde. This serum contains 0.03% retinaldehyde, which is a gentle yet effective form of vitamin A that can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Ejikeme. “It also contains hyaluronic acid and glycerine to help hydrate and plump the skin. The Crystal Retinal technology used in this product allows for better penetration of the retinaldehyde into the skin, making it more effective than other forms of vitamin A.”
Paula’s Choice Clinical 10% Niacinamide Booster
“Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, and fine lines. I recommend the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, which contains a high concentration of niacinamide along with soothing agents like allantoin and liquorice root extract. It can be used alone or mixed into your favourite moisturiser for an extra boost of hydration and brightening,” says Dr Ejikeme.
Shop Paula’s Choice Clinical 10% Niacinamide Booster at Space NK, £46
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Face Serum
“I absolutely love this new serum,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall. “It is a powerhouse of hydration that can be used on all skin types and all concerns. I firmly believe that a robust skin barrier underpins skin health. This serum contains 10% panthenol a B5 vitamin that essentially works as both a humectant drawing moisture to the skin barrier and has an emollient action, holding that moisture. I would advise using this daily as part of a routine to hydrate and protect the skin barrier. It has all the calming, hydrating, skin recovery ingredients of the balm, but this lighter serum means it can be used daily.”
Shop La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Face Serum at Cult Beauty, £39
CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
“CeraVe hyaluronic acid serum is very effective as it is combined with a combination of three ceramides, plus vitamin B5 which has potent hydrating properties,” explains Dr Hextall. “I always talk about trying to recreate a robust skin barrier for those with sensitive, compromised skin. By using potent humectants with barrier sealing ceramides, the results are almost instant – plus this serum has a fantastic price point.”
Shop CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum at Lookfantastic, £19
Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Booster Serum
“Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our skin that helps to keep it hydrated and plump,” says Dr Ejikeme. “As we age, our natural levels of hyaluronic acid decrease, leading to dryness and wrinkles. That’s why I love the Vichy Mineral 89 serum, which contains a high concentration of hyaluronic acid to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier. It also contains Vichy’s mineralising thermal water, which is rich in antioxidants and minerals that help to protect and soothe the skin.”
Shop Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Booster Serum at Boots, £26
Garnier SkinActive Vitamin C Brightening Serum
“This is a great introduction vitamin C product,” says Dr Sommerlad. “The vitamin C concentration is 3.5%, so lower than many other vitamin C serums but the addition of niacinamide and salicylic acid to the formulation is highly effective at reducing blemishes and hyperpigmentation.”
Shop Garnier SkinActive Vitamin C Brightening Serum at Boots, £11.99
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigment Corrector Night Serum
“I am prone to melasma despite being obsessive about sunscreen,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Thivi Maruthappu. “My go to serum is Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigment Corrector Night Serum. It’s pretty potent, so best used a few times per week rather than every day. It contains brightening mandelic acid and a combination of lactic and salicylic acid which works really well on acne-prone skin and post-inflammatory pigmentation. It’s pricey but a little goes a long way.”
Shop Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum at Cult Beauty, £89
Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum
“One of the most common issues I see in clinic is pigmentation issues,” reveals Dr Hextall. “The Murad dark spot correcting serum with its patented anti-oxidant formula which includes resorcinol and glycolic acid helps to turn over the surface skin cells and brighten the complexion, giving a more even tone. The potent anti-oxidant also helps to protect against further free radical damage from UV and pollution, reducing pigmentation issues while protecting collagen and elastin from ongoing damage. It’s a perfect combination to tackle visible signs of photo-ageing whilst protecting the skin.”
Shop Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum at Space NK, £82
Vichy LiftActiv Retinol Specialist
“This is a milky retinol serum which also contains probiotic fractions and the soothing Vichy volcanic waters. This combination helps smooth and firm skin texture while also reducing blemishes and supporting the skin barrier,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Mary Sommerlad.
Shop Vichy LiftActiv Retinol Specialist at Lookfantastic, £42.50
Typology Radiance Night Serum
Another new favourite of mine is the Typology Radiance Night serum. It’s a rich but delicate oil that helps to soothe even the most parched skin types,” says Dr Maruthappu.
The best serums as voted by the Stylist beauty team
The best retinol serum
Credit: La Roche-Posay
This retinol serum is a new addition to my line-up, but I’m already through two bottles of the stuff and have been seriously impressed. As the name suggests, it contains retinol, which is the undisputed champion of levelling out skin texture and tone and bringing back lost bounce. Problem is, it can be fairly irritating to skin when you first start using it. That’s why this serum also contains vitamin B3 (aka niacinamide) to soothe and dial back any potential irritation. In fact, by using this retinol and layering it under a ceramide-rich cream, I’ve had literally no irritation whatsoever. And there’s also a dollop of hydrating glycerin there for good measure.
The best calming serum
Credit: Dr.Jart+
I’m not sure what’s caused it, but recently my skin has been dotted with patches of eczema. They’re around my eyes, under my mouth and even in my hair line. It means I’ve been forced to dial things back tenfold when it comes to the skincare products I’m using, and I’ve swapped all my active ingredients for this simple serum. It contains centella asiatica, the key ingredient of cica creams, which works to soothe and heal areas of irritated skin, of which I have many.
Shop Dr Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Re.pair Serum at Boots, £28.50
The best barrier-repair serum
Credit: Cult Beauty
When I can tell that my barrier has been all but depleted, I always turn to this gentle serum. It’s main focus is on strengthening the skin, which is why I often use it alongside ingredients that are known to irritate, such as retinol and vitamin C. And it’s quick to work too: after just one or two uses, I can usually tell my skin is stronger, as evidenced in its reinstated glow and bounce.
Shop Kate Somerville DeliKate Recovery Serum at Cult Beauty, £74
The best brightening serum
Credit: Victoria Health
I’m not sure there’s anyone who wouldn’t benefit from slipping a little vitamin C into their skincare routine. The ingredient is brilliant at brightening skin, especially areas of hyperpigmentation, but it’s also an antioxidant, which means it will bat off anything that dares to try and aggravate skin, like pollution and other environmental offenders. I adore the Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, an orange-tinged serum that works remarkably fast, but when I’m not feeling quite as flush, Garden of Wisdom’s version gives a substantial hit of the ingredient, while being much kinder on the wallet.
The best strengthening serum
Credit: Shiseido
I always recommend Shiseido’s cult serum to anyone looking to invest in a really hard working formula. A jack-of-all-trades, it promises to do everything from hydrate to brighten, and boost the efficacy of the skincare steps that follow. However, I’d say its main draw is the way it strengthens the skin. It contains antioxidants from mushroom extracts that defend against skin damage, but also hydrating ingredients that keep the skin barrier working. If you’re someone that suffers from sensitivity or you’ve noticed your skin is struggling to hold onto hydration, this is most definitely the serum for you.
The best probiotic serum
Credit: Aurelia Probiotic Skincare
Probiotic skincare is based on the premise that the skin’s microbiome (the system of bacteria that lives on its surface) needs to remain balanced to support overall skin health, which in turn can help ward off dryness, sensitivity and even breakouts. Aurelia’s Probiotic Concentrate contains proteins and milk extracts that ‘feed’ the good bacteria on the skin. Of course, without a powerful microscope, it’s impossible to spot whether my six weeks of wear have helped those little guys flourish, but if what I can see in the mirror is anything to go by — a uniform sheet of plump, hydrated and dare I say it, glowing skin — then I would say it is.
Shop Aurelia The Probiotic Concentrate at lookfantastic, £95
The best serum for spot-prone skin
Credit: Glossier
Every now and then, often around my period, I get a smattering of spots on my chin and forehead. Rather than try and scrub the acne away, I try my best to keep the skin hydrated and soothed by bringing Glossier’s Super Pure serum into my routine. It contains soothing niacinamide (which we spoke about above) to take down the redness, as well as zinc which levels out sebum levels. No, it doesn’t miraculously evaporate acne over night, but it does help skin recover much faster.
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