While there are some skincare ingredients that we know work well – take a bow vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and vitamin A – it pays to be sceptical when shopping for skincare. From formulation ratios to clever marketing lingo, what we put on our skin isn’t always what’s promised to us on the bottle and research is key to ensure you’re not being sold a pipe-dream. 

Which is where caffeine comes in. Cropping up in our moisturisers, eye creams and daily skincare serums – caffeine is often marketed as an energising ‘pick-me-up’ for the skin. But as a beauty editor, I’m sceptical, and the clever marketing lingo has recently had me questioning caffeine’s real place in our skincare formulations. 

Luckily, working in the beauty industry means I’ve got a little black book of beauty experts at my fingertips. So, I reached out to Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, medical consultant and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic, to pick her brains about the ingredient. 

“In skincare, caffeine is typically derived from plant sources, such as coffee beans or tea leaves,” explains Dr Ejikeme. “It is then incorporated into skincare products in the form of an extract or as a synthesised ingredient.”

“Caffeine possesses antioxidant properties, meaning it can help protect the skin against harmful free radicals that are generated by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution,” explains Dr Ejikeme. “By neutralising these free radicals, caffeine aids in minimising oxidative stress and preventing premature ageing of the skin.”

Another valuable property of caffeine is its anti-inflammatory effect. “It can help reduce redness, swelling and puffiness, particularly around the eyes. This makes caffeine an excellent ingredient in eye creams, as it can diminish the appearance of dark circles and under-eye bags.”

“Caffeine also has vasoconstrictive properties, meaning it can constrict blood vessels. This effect is particularly beneficial for reducing the appearance of redness and calming irritated or flushed skin. It can also contribute to reducing the visibility of spider veins and rosacea symptoms.”

Not only that, it turns out that caffeine does in fact have an energising effect on the skin. “This can help improve blood circulation and brighten the skin, giving it a more radiant and revitalised look,” Dr Ejikeme reveals.

Images: courtesy of brands