Cast your eye over any skin guru’s bathroom cabinet and you’ll likely spot more retinol-loaded beauty products than you’d care to count – and for good reason. There’s a lot to love about the power ingredient, which has soared to cult skincare status in the last couple of years, but specifically its skin-smoothing, brightening, collagen-stimulating prowess and its ability to treat acne.

Billed as the ‘gold standard’ in skincare, the vitamin A-derivative is proven to speed up our skin cells’ turnover. Fine lines are reduced, pigmentation is treated and blackheads and whiteheads are minimised. In their place, expect plumpness, radiance and a more even skin tone and texture.

So, of course it’s no wonder experts say retinol is one of only three ‘magic’ skin ingredients we really need alongside vitamin C and SPF. Commonly found in over-the-counter products, it can also be prescribed in higher concentrations by dermatologists.

But, like most things we love, retinol has a downside. All that turbo-regeneration action can come with a side serving of dryness, flaking, redness and inflammation if your complexion’s sensitive, and it’s why experts advise introducing retinol into your routine gradually – either by slowly upping your usage or even by creating a barrier with the application of moisturising cream or serum first.

But what if we told you that there was a kinder alternative to retinol? An ingredient that promised the same transformative powers only without the risk of irritation? Well, according to scientists, there is, and it comes in the form of a natural, plant-based ingredient called bakuchiol.

Pronounced buh-koo-chee-all, it’s the star ingredient in many of the industry’s most in-demand skincare products. Allies of Skin uses it in its overnight serum while Ole Henriksen has chosen it as the hero of his Transform Plus range. Other brands using it include Medik8, Paula’s Choice, This Works and Biossance.

While you might be reading this thinking it all sounds a bit too good to be true, don’t just take our word for it – it’s also got scientific research to back it up. A clinical study looking at bakuchiol’s impact on skin found it to be just as effective as retinol when it comes to nuking hyperpigmentation and fine lines. But – and here’s the seriously exciting part – bakuchiol testers experienced none of the soreness or irritation that is so often reported with retinol.

Intrigued? Here’s everything you need to know about retinol’s calmer, less angsty little sister in our ultimate bakuchiol cheat sheet…

Derived from the seeds and leaves of Eastern Asia’s ‘babchi’ plant (officially the Psoralea corylifolia plant), bakuchiol has been a mainstay in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese skin-healing treatments for centuries.

It’s long been loved for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties – the same characteristics that have led scientists to take a closer look at it in recent years. While it doesn’t have the same make-up as retinol (it doesn’t come from vitamin A) bakuchiol’s effect on skin is remarkably similar hence the term ‘retinol alternative’. 

It’s been found to improve skin brightness, sort uneven skin tone, up plumpness, minimise enlarged pores, boost firmness, smooth out texture and lessen fine lines. In short, it offers all the same plus points as retinol – but with less risk of irritation.

In one study, researchers from California, Michigan, Florida and Pennsylvania observed the effect on 44 participants, giving them either bakuchiol or retinol to apply. After 12 weeks, both showed a reduction in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but the retinol users reported more skin scaling and stinging. Another study showed it to be highly effective at treating acne.

And, as Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London explains, “Bakuchiol has been shown to activate a number of chemical pathways in skin cells that ultimately lead to improved collagen production, decreased collagen breakdown and reduction of melanin (pigment) synthesis. The overall net effect seems to be an improvement in fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation that are commonly associated with the natural ageing process of the skin.

“It’s definitely the ‘new kid on the block’ and is gaining a lot of interest as the demand for plant-based or botanical ingredients grows in the beauty and skincare industry,” she says.

Yes! The magic of bakuchiol is that it’s tolerated by all. Whether you’re dry, dehydrated, oily or sensitive, you’re much more likely to get on with it than you are retinol. 

“Bakuchiol brings the power of retinoids to everyone safely without any of the negative side effects,” comments skincare expert Ole Henriksen. 

One of the main issues with retinol is the fact it’s not advisable to use if you’re either pregnant or breastfeeding your baby. This applies to retinoids in all their forms including retinoic acid and retin-A. 

Certain studies have shown that taking vitamin A in high doses during pregnancy can be harmful to the unborn child. Similarly, retinoids taken orally (such as tretinoin) are not recommended during pregnancy. While applying these topically in skincare hasn’t been proven to cause problems in pregnancy or breastfeeding, doctors recommend avoiding it. 

So what’s the deal with bakuchiol? While some experts say there’s not yet quite enough evidence to confirm either way, most, including Ole Henriksen, rule it is perfectly safe to use while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding – offering a major advantage over retinol. 

There’s no hard and fast rule for when you should start reaching for bakuchiol, although most of the bugbears it tackles are likely to hit in your mid-20s onwards. Unlike retinol, it won’t break down in the sun or make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so you’re free to use it both day and night. In the studies mentioned above, participants applied it twice a day. 

Dryness and flaking aside, retinol can also pose some problems when it comes to mixing it with other skincare ingredients. While some experts advise against cocktailing with other actives, like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or vitamin C, others maintain it’s not an issue.

Although if your skin’s fussy, you’ll likely get on better with gentle giant bakuchiol and it will easily complement your existing arsenal. In research with acne sufferers, it worked particularly well alongside spot-fighting benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. 

“Bakuchiol is the sort of ingredient that ticks a lot of boxes for consumers and brands. It appears to have minimal side-effects compared to alternatives, and it seems to be effective,” Nina Goad of the British Association of Dermatologists tells Stylist.

But despite the impressive research, Goad isn’t lauding it as skin’s ‘holy grail’ just yet. After all, retinol has over 40 years of clinical trials behind it – 10 times that of bakuchiol.

“If reducing wrinkles is a major concern, don’t necessarily rush to switch from retinol immediately. Researchers are optimistic, but there is more research to be done. It’s also worth considering that even the most effective anti-wrinkle ingredients can only do so much. Although you can’t prevent skin ageing entirely, you can try to avoid excessive exposure to environmental factors that increase it, particularly UV exposure and smoking,” Goad adds. 

Bakuchiol creams, oils and serums come in all kinds of textures and colours but the ingredient itself, like the flowers of the babchi plant, is a pale purple shade. 

Henriksen says its beautiful lilac hue is part of the reason he wanted to incorporate the ingredient into his popular Ole Henriksen Transform Plus Retin-Alt products. Since purple’s especially adept at colour-correcting dull, sallow skin, he combined it with a pearlescent finish to add an immediate glow. 

Images: Getty; courtesy of brands