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Why dermatologists love azelaic acid for treating acne, scarring and rosacea
By Lucy Partington &Charlotte Bitmead
2 days ago
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4 min read
Despite not being as common as some ingredients, azelaic acid is definitely worth swotting up on. This is what you need to know.
The list of skincare ingredients is seemingly never-ending. From salicylic acid and retinol to prickly pear and niacinamide, it can be overwhelming. But there’s one unsung hero that you definitely need to know about: azelaic acid.
It’s becoming increasingly popular after years of being more commonly prescribed by dermatologists, and more and more brands are jumping on the bandwagon. Now, azelaic acid is finally getting the attention it deserves, so we spoke to an expert about exactly what it is, how it works and how it should be used.
What is azelaic acid?
“This naturally occurring acid is a by-product of a yeast that lives on all our skin,” explains Dr Sam Bunting, skin expert and founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare. “Specifically, it’s a dicarboxylic acid and can be found in grains such as barley.”
Credit: Getty
What skin types or concerns are best for azelaic acid?
Those who have acne, redness or rosacea will benefit most from incorporating azelaic acid into their routines.
How does azelaic acid work?
“As well as reducing inflammation in the skin, it also acts as an antibacterial and reduces the tendency for skin cells to clog up pores,” explains Bunting. “These actions combined make it incredibly helpful in treating and preventing acne. It also inhibits the action of tyrosinase, which means it reduces the tendency for skin to develop pigmentation, which makes it good for reducing post-acne marks or scars and melasma.”
At what point in a skincare routine should azelaic acid be used?
“I tend to start out in the morning, but over time – and if you enjoy the benefits – it can also be used at nighttime,” says Bunting.
Can azelaic acid be used in combination with other ingredients?
“Yes, it’s a great team player. It can be combined with retinoids, bakuchiol, niacinamide and with other things like BHAs or hyaluronic acid,” she says.
Are there any side effects of using azelaic acid?
“As with any active ingredient, if it’s initially used too enthusiastically, it can cause redness and irritation. But given that we use azelaic acid in rosacea with good effect, this happens a lot less often than with many other active ingredients,” says Bunting.
The best azelaic acid skincare products
Dr Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum
A powerhouse combination of 10% azelaic acid, bakuchiol (the natural retinol alternative) and soothing niacinamide, this serum is designed to be applied each morning to give skin a serious glow-up.
Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
Containing 10% azelaic acid and 1% kojic acid (a game-changer for minimising redness), this is going to be your best friend if you’re struggling with a breakout or rosacea flare-up. The silky serum calms skin and prevents blemishes, all while working to even out your skin tone.
Shop Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum at Cult Beauty, £94
Beauty Pie Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream
Containing a trio of skin-soothers: azelaic acid, niacinamide and centella asiatica, this is the serum equivalent of a comfort blanket for stressed-out skin. While it calms reactive skin upon application, it also claims to reduce the long-term appearance of redness in just a week.
Naturium Azelaic Acid 10%
This juicy serum isn’t just going to minimise redness, it’s also going to deliver brightness and glow to the skin, thanks to the inclusion of vitamin C, niacinamide and coffee seed extract. This is as multi-tasking as it gets.
Skin + Me Redness + Uneven Tone Serum, for Dry to Normal Skin, with Azelaic Acid and Collagen Amino Acid
The digital skincare subscription service has come out with a line of products that require zero commitment.
This features our hero skin-soother, as well as hydro-collagen amino acids for glossy, calm skin. It dispenses the exact amount of product you need in one twist, but at only 12ml, we went through this quickly.
Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial
A combination of 10% azelaic acid and 1% salicylic acid works to improve discolouration and dark spots while reducing the appearance of spots and redness for a brighter, more even complexion.
Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
Gentle but very effective, this liquid exfoliant combines azelaic acid with lactic acid and BHAs, and it’s suitable for everyday use.
Shop Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic at Lookfantastic, £30
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Suitable to use either alone or mixed in with your favourite moisturiser, this booster is a combination of azelaic acid, salicylic acid and plant extracts. It works to help fade brown spots caused by sun damage, reduces breakouts and helps to eliminate acne scars.
Shop Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster at Sephora UK, £41
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
This lightweight, gel-like cream is formulated with 10% azelaic acid, which works to help brighten skin while making a visible difference to its texture and reduces the appearance of blemishes.
Shop The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% at Boots, £11.10
Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 12% Cream
Glycerin and ceramides join forces with azelaic acid to help keep your skin clear and your barrier healthy.
Shop Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 12% Cream at Beauty Bay, £19.95
Q+A Azelaic Acid Balancing Serum
This budget-friendly serum is good for all skin types except sensitive ones.
The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
Shop The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum at Cult Beauty, £16
Images: Getty; courtesy of brands
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